Dining Guide

La Cienega/West Hollywood

Alto Palato 755 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-657-9271). D nightly. This modern echo chamber of a space serves favorites from up and down the Boot: cozze alla Napoletana (mussels with parsley, garlic, and tomatoes), thin-crust pizza, and a superb monkfish fillet sautéed with lemon, capers, and olive oil. The gelato is renowned, the warm chocolate tart with kiwi and raspberry sauces downright heady. The espresso is perfect. Full bar. ($$) Italian
Angelini Osteria 7313 Beverly Blvd. (323-297-0070). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. The place is tiny, the kitchen is open, and the room is busy. The menu's written in a pastiche of Italian (taglierino con salumi e burrata) and English (pork chop with red cabbage and apple), and the food is equally mixed. A special of polenta, olives, and scallops is divinity on a plate, but a sea bass fillet might pack a few bones. Beer and wine. ($$$) Italian
Arnie Morton's of Chicago 435 S. La Cienega Blvd. (310-246-1501). D nightly. This Windy City offshoot is a classic American steak house, complete with mahogany paneling and waiters who wheel slabs of beef and veal and live lobsters tableside in lieu of menus. The more-than-ample portions are the perfect entrée to cholesterol heaven. Full bar. ($$$) American
Asia de Cuba 8440 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-848-6000). B-L-D daily. This dining equivalent of Sky Bar, set in the beyond-hip Mondrian, is filled with hot young celebs. The tuna pica starter is worthy of an Oscar; the Cuban spiced chicken and yucca-crusted mahimahi warm the cockles. Don't go home without the Latin Lover—chocolate mousse cake with white coffee anglaise. Full bar. ($$$) Asian/Cuban
Balboa Prime Grafton Hotel, 8462 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-650-8383). B-L-D daily. Steak's the name of the game, and the prime cuts, from porterhouse to ostrich, are top of the line, served with various rubs (blue cheese, peppercorn) and sauces (pinot noir, truffle). You choose. Skip the roasted broccoli and only go for the mac and cheese if you're into heavily smoked Gouda—and haven't had more than your share of the addictive shoestring potatoes. Full bar. ($$$$) Steak House
Celestino Italian Steak House 8908 Beverly Blvd. (310-858-5777). D nightly. Celestino Drago's steak house celebrates Piedmontese beef—tasty meat indeed. Sautéed rapini and garlic masheds are hearty sides. Pizzas, pastas, and risotto are nonbeef alternatives, and the cold lemon soufflé is a dessert essential. Full bar. ($$$) Italian Steak House
Chaya Brasserie 8741 Alden Dr. (310-859-8833). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This multiculti bistro—with patio—is a hit with WeHo's creative community, not to mention the staff at Cedars-Sinai. The food's unerringly good, somewhat surprising given the bustle and lengthy menu, and incorporates Asian tinges with continental regulars. Think grilled mahimahi with black bean sauce and halibut with lemongrass curry and glass noodles. Nifty cocktails. Full bar. ($$$) French/Italian/Asian
Cobras & Matadors 7615 W. Beverly Blvd. (323-932-6178). D nightly. Steven Arroyo has transformed his somewhat elitist Boxer into a bustling tapas restaurant, and little plates, traditional or not, have never been so good: shrimp-studded paellas served in mini skillets; wood oven-roasted mushrooms, jamón serrano with lentils, white anchovies with fried-garlic vinaigrette. The place is always packed, so make a reservation or browse the extensive Spanish-wine selection at the store next door while you wait. BYOB. ($$) Tapas
Daily Grill Beverly Connection, 100 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-659-3100). L-D daily. Proof that fine food can be served at reasonable prices in a pleasant setting, this offshoot of the Grill in Beverly Hills offers essentially the same menu of steaks, chops, fish, chicken, and salads at significantly lower prices. Try the perfect french fries and onion rings—and the rice pudding. Full bar. ($$) American
Dan Tana's 9071 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-275-9444). D nightly. This old-fashioned hangout is a favorite among those who live for great steaks and chops, served by waiters who have been around, well, forever. The room is dark, the drinks strong. Celebs who hate to be bothered love the place. The spaghetti sauce is right out of Little Italy. Full bar. ($$$) Northern Italian
Dominick's 8715 Beverly Blvd. (310-652-7272). D Mon.- Sat. Frank Sinatra owned this restaurant and lounge back when it was a Rat Pack haunt. Its newer incarnation, under the ownership of Jon Sidel, packs in its own share of the hip and famous with mac and cheese, shrimp cakes, tuna au poivre, and steak. The cocktail menu is as long as your arm. Full bar. ($$$) Continental/American
G. Garvins 8420 W. 3rd St. (323-655-3888). D Mon.-Sat. The banquettes are a buttery tan suede, the lighting is soft, and Sade croons through the speakers. Gerry Garvin's menu is small but rich: grilled satay of filet mignon, roasted Colorado rack of lamb with baby vegetables, new potatoes in a port wine and pepper sauce, and a nice sautéed Atlantic salmon. Dessert? Homemade banana mousse cake with warm caramel sauce. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-Continental
Grand Lux Cafe 121 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-855-1122). L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Imagine a Venetian train-station café with belle epoque touches and a Vegas veneer. Wedge it into a corner of the Beverly Center, fill it with comfy booths and a gargantuan menu of everything from pancakes to salads to Jamaican-style pork platters, and hire an army of black-clad headset-wearing conductors to ensure seating efficiency. Voilà. The Cheesecake Factory has opened an upscale version of itself, and it's been SRO since day one. Full bar. ($$) Global
Ita-Cho 7311 Beverly Blvd. (323-938-9009). D Tue.-Sat. Waitresses are oblivious of the luminaries in the crowd, and there's a menu of sake to sip along with your tatsuta age, a Japanese-style deep-fried chicken that's luscious and greaseless. Sashimi (they don't serve sushi) is usually sparkling-fresh tuna or yellowtail with spiked soy sauce. For dessert, it's green tea or red bean ice cream. Beer and wine. ($$) Japanese
The Ivy 113 N. Robertson Blvd. (310-274-8303). L-D daily; brunch Sun. This is the place to be seen dining, whether on the streetfront patio or inside where it's as cozy as a French farmhouse. The menu, which never changes, runs from crab cakes and chopped salads to pastas, tandoori chicken, and grilled fish. The handsome hand-painted crockery is also sold next door. The tarte Tatin and key lime pie are especially delish. Full bar. ($$$) American
JAR 8225 Beverly Blvd. (323-655-6566). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Suzanne Tracht, ex of Jozu, and Mark Peel of Campanile have teamed up for this chophouse, where Tracht's short ribs and braised pork belly are among the favored dishes. Steaks, chops, fish, and classics like an iceberg wedge and a lobster cocktail hold down the balance of the menu. Sides—creamed spinach, fries, roast asparagus—and sauces like horseradish, tamarind, and béarnaise are à la carte. Full bar. ($$$) Steak House
Katana 8439 Sunset Blvd. (323-650-8585). D nightly. From the boys who brought you Balboa and Sushi Roku comes this salute to robata-yaki: Everything from yellowtail to chicken gizzard is cooked over an open flame and served on skewers. Not even the excellent toro tartare, however, can top Dodd Mitchell's sleek design, which mixes Italian Renaissance brick and mortar with the woodsy warmth of a Japanese temple. Watch Sunset from the patio. Full bar. ($$$) Japanese
Le Petit Bistro 631 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-289-9797). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Specialties at this decent, inexpensive bistro include moules marinière and herbed chicken with pommes frites. Occasionally there's a Moroccan edge, as in the wild mushroom ravioli. Full bar. ($$) French
Linq 8338 W. 3rd St. (323-655-4555). D nightly. It's Dodd Mitchell's design that put this place on the map: white walls, marble, glass, and Brancusi-inspired woodwork. A fabulous crowd dines on Moroccan seared chicken with chutney and soy-mirin-glazed Chilean sea bass with wasabi masheds. The lemon meringue semifreddo is luscious, but most meals end with a martini in the lounge. Full bar. ($$$) Fusion
The Little Door 8164 W. 3rd St. (323-951-1210). D nightly. The place is such a poorly kept Industry secret that it doesn't even need a sign. The ambitious menu changes every month and offers appetizers like grilled vegetable terrine and entrées like marinated swordfish. Beer and wine. ($$$) French/Mediterranean
Locanda Veneta 8638 W. 3rd St. (310-274-1893). L Mon.- Fri.; D nightly. This little restaurant across from Cedars-Sinai has Venetian cuisine as good as anything on the Grand Canal. The setting may be small, but the cooking is grand. Beer and wine. ($$$) Northern Italian
L'Orangerie 903 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-652-9770). D Tue.-Sun. The opulent rooms are worthy of Versailles, and the food, quintessential French, is equally regal: beluga with corn blini and sour cream, beef tenderloin with Bordelaise sauce, roast veal chop with tarte Tatin. Full bar. ($$$$) French
Matsuhisa 129 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-659-9639). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. It looks like an ordinary neighborhood sushi bar, but wait till you get to Nobu Matsuhisa's 25-page menu of cooked seafood dishes, including miso-flavored black cod, shrimp in a pepper sauce, and tempura sea urchin in a shiso leaf. Beer and wine. ($$$) Japanese
Mimosa 8009 Beverly Blvd. (323-655-8895). D Tue.-Sat. This modest storefront bistro resembles an ordinary restaurant in every way but one: The food is really good. A Rolls-Royce crowd dines on now-famous mac and cheese with prosciutto, as well as cassoulet, filet mignon, and roast chicken. The house motto: "No truffles, no caviar, no bizarre concoctions!" Beer and wine. ($$$) Country French
north 8029 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-654-1313). D nightly. This is a cool watering hole with a mod, Alpine feel. Excellent grilled shrimp cocktail and mac and cheese go well with such house specials as the Twig & Berries (Frangelico, Chambord, Bailey's, Absolut, and cream). For serious eating, slip into a banquette and order the porterhouse and the superlative caramelized apple tart. Full bar. ($$) Eclectic
Orso 8706 W. 3rd St. (310-274-7144). L-D daily. This place is popular with celebrities, who linger on the patio over fine thin-crust pizza and pasta, chicken, and fish. It's noisy, affable, and reasonably priced. Full bar and exclusively Italian wine list. ($$) Italian
The Palm 9001 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-550-8811). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. You want steak? This is the place. The walls are covered with celebrity caricatures, the booths are packed, and the waiters talk fast—so keep up. Start with the clams casino and keep going with the double steak (a 36-ounce New York strip for two), which has that misshapen look all great steaks have. Full bar. ($$$) American
Pane e Vino 8265 Beverly Blvd. (323-651-4600). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. This is a celebrity-intensive café with a rear entrance that allows stars to sneak in for a plate of roasted veggies in a clay pot and some fine risotto. Also at 1482 E. Valley Rd., Montecito (805-969-9274). Full bar. ($$) Italian
Señoritas on Sunset 9040 Sunset Blvd. (310-274-6662). L-D daily. This cavernous space had its heyday as Scandia and is making a comeback in a new incarnation featuring mighty fine comida and a friendly bar scene. Go for jumbo shrimp cocktails, ceviche, outsize salads, burritos, tostadas, and enchiladas (Alaskan snow crab, no less). Turkey burgers for resolute gringos, tasty margaritas for all. Food is served until 1 a.m. Full bar. ($$) Mexican
Surya 8048 W. 3rd St. (323-653-5151). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Restaurants don't get much more welcoming, and Indian food in L.A. doesn't get much better. Stuffed nan is a meal in itself, and the curries—vegetarian or with tender chicken or lamb—are exquisitely seasoned. A prawn-pepper masala is comfort food, Eastern style. Beer and wine. ($$) Indian
Sushi Roku 8445 W. 3rd St. (323-655-6767). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. People don't come here just for hand rolls and sashimi. Cooked food abounds: smoky salmon-skin salad, sizzling tobanyaki (sautéed mushrooms), filet mignon teriyaki. If you're lucky, the specials will include caviar-topped monkfish pâté wrapped with salmon or cashew-dusted soft-shell crab with chile-lime dressing. Also at 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena (626-683-3000); 1401 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica (310-458-4771). Full bar. ($$$) Japanese
Swingers Beverly Laurel Motor Hotel, 8020 Beverly Blvd. (323-653-5858). B-L-D daily. The kind of spot for people who conduct business breakfasts at 3:30 p.m. or 1:30 a.m. L.A. scenemeister Sean MacPherson has morphed this Special K-serving nugget of the Kennedy era into a place where the MTV generation scarfs down tofu scrambles, chili omelettes, and smoothies. Beer and wine. ($) Eclectic
Talésai 9043 Sunset Blvd. (310-275-9724). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. One of our few upscale Thai restaurants is located in the heavy-metal ghetto on the Strip and offers dishes fancy and not. Heavenly duck is marinated in ginger and soy before being steamed and fried, a charbroiled rib eye is served with chile-coconut sauce, and the pad thai is darn near perfect. Full bar. ($$) Thai

Downtown/Midcity

Cafe Pinot 700 W. 5th St. (213-239-6500). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This is another one of Joachim Splichal's spots and is situated next to the Central Library in a box of glass with a handsome skyward view. The food is Splichal Lite—eccentrically delicious Provençal-California cooking. Full bar. ($$$) California/French Bistro
Cicada 617 S. Olive St. (213-488-9488). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. The room is a throwback to old-time elegance, and the food mixes traditional preparation with contemporary finesse. Appetizers run to shallot flan and foie gras with caramelized pineapple, and entrées include cuttlefish risotto, coffee-glazed rack of lamb, and seared snapper with baby leeks. Full bar. ($$$) Northern Italian
Ciudad 445 S. Figueroa St. (213-486-5171). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The tortilla soup at Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger's downtown place is a star. Follow with their pan-Latin cuisine: Argentine empanadas, Swiss chard with tomatillo sauce, and Brazilian moqueca—mussels, shrimp, and other seafood in a coconut-lime broth over coconut rice. Shuttle service to nearby theaters is available. Full bar. ($$$) Latin
Engine Co. No. 28 644 S. Figueroa St. (213-624-6996). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This is a downtown citadel of Boy Food—beef, chili, meat loaf, and the like in a former firehouse full of brass and leather. It's a busy businessmen's hangout, but if you go for pretheater dinner, they'll get you to the show on time. Full bar. ($$) American
La Boca del Conga Room 5370 Wilshire Blvd. (323-938-1696). D Wed.-Sat. Comprising the two whimsical rooms that lead to the Conga proper, the Boca seems straight out of Dr. Seuss—with the exception of the scantily clad crowd. The food is just as festive: tuna ceviche, cazuela de carne (grilled rib eye over mashed tamale), and a tres leches chocolate cake. Work it all off with a salsa lesson at the Conga. Full bar. ($$$) Nuevo Latino
McCormick & Schmick's Seafood Restaurant 633 W. 5th St. (213-629-1929). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. This branch of one of the most successful seafood establishments in the Pacific Northwest holds close to 500 diners. The decor includes lots of wood and leather, and menus are printed daily to reflect what's new, mixing traditional offerings with contemporary tastes. Full bar. ($$) Seafood
Nick & Stef's Steakhouse 330 S. Hope St. (213-680-0330). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. At Joachim Splichal's highbrow steak house, giant cuts of beef hang dramatically in a glass-walled aging chamber, and the service in the moderne dining room is flawless. Meats are superlative, and sides like artichoke gratin are seriously indulgent. So is the lemon meringue pie. Full bar. ($$$$) Steak House
Ocean Seafood 750 N. Hill St. (213-687-3088). B-L-D daily. One of Old Chinatown's premier seafood houses, with a dim sum lunch some say is the best in town. (And who are we to argue—it's wonderful!) Full bar. ($$) Cantonese
R-23 923 E. 2nd St. (213-687-7178). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. One of the best sushi bars in L.A. is hidden away in the downtown artists district and sports cardboard furniture, exposed brick, and chefs who make miracles out of fish and rice. Beer and wine. ($$$) Japanese
Traxx 800 N. Alameda St. (213-625-1999). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Fuse Spanish colonial and moderne architecture with an equally eclectic crowd, and you have this swank stop in Union Station. Savor the ambience while enjoying a pork chop with mission fig polenta and follow it up with crunchy chocolate truffle cake with crème anglaise. Full bar. ($$$) California Nouveau
Water Grill 544 S. Grand Ave. (213-891-0900). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The room is sophisticated if somewhat businesslike, but the food is why you're here. Choices include a seasonal range of top-notch oysters and an exquisite menu of fresh fish. The wine list is first-rate, as is the chocolate bread pudding. Full bar. ($$$) Seafood

Los Feliz/Silverlake

Cafe Stella 3932 Sunset Blvd. (323-666-0265). D Tue.-Sat. At this neighborhood café hidden behind Sunset Junction, specials are noted on a chalkboard, fresh baguettes are whisked to the tables, and everyone seems engaged in serious conversation. The asparagus salad and escargots in parsley-garlic sauce are nice starters, and main dishes include tarragon chicken and steak au poivre. Save room for the crème brûlée. Beer and wine. ($$$) French
Chameau 2520 Hyperion Ave. (323-953-1973). D Thur.-Sat. This small neighborhood charmer serves Moroccan-style cuisine (chameau is French for "camel") accessible to California palates.The bistilla appetizer is an aromatic blend of ground chicken and spices wrapped in phyllo, and the baked halibut is olive crusted. BYOB. ($$) French/Moroccan
Fred 62 1850 N. Vermont Ave. (323-667-0062). B-L-D 24 hours daily. Chef Fred Eric and designer Fred Sutherland have tweaked diner grub to create a menu of chewy Korean potato-starch noodles, tofu scramble, smoked salmon sandwiches, even homemade Pop-Tarts. This retro joint is cool 24 hours a day. Beer and wine. ($) Eclectic Diner
Il Capriccio on Vermont 1757 N. Vermont Ave. (323-662-5900). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The smell of roasting garlic fills the dining room, thanks to a bustling kitchen cooking up chicken Vesuvio, spaghetti del mare, and rigatoni norcina (ground sausage, mushrooms, and onions in a light cream sauce). For dessert? The squash-shaped zuccotto (sponge cake). BYOB. ($$) Italian
The Kitchen 4348 Fountain Ave. (323-664-3663). L Sat.-Sun.; D nightly. It's a throwback setting with a fast-forward crowd at this squeaky-clean neighborhood joint, which is open till midnight Sunday through Thursday and till 2:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday. The food is hearty and well priced—slow-cooked lamb shanks with mashed potatoes, dinner-sized stew of the day, and buttermilk fried chicken with black-eyed peas. Flourless chocolate cake or strawberry shortcake for dessert. BYOB. ($) Diner
Mexico City 2121 Hillhurst Ave. (323-661-7227). L Wed.-Sun.; D nightly. The decor is '50s Naugahyde, the crowd Los Feliz hipster, and the menu atypical. Of the six enchilada offerings, the spinach—with a Zacatecanas sauce of poblano chiles, sour cream, and onions—best shows the kitchen's ambition and ability. Shrimp is a favorite of the chef, and serious carnivores will want to try the cochinita pibil (Yucatán-style marinated pork). Full bar. ($) Mexican
Tangier 2138 Hillhurst Ave. (323-666-8666). L Sat.-Sun.; D nightly. The menu's an odd medley, ranging from spaghetti Bolognese with manchego to tandoori chicken croquettes to crackling pork chops. Settle into one of the old Chasen's booths, start with an extraordinarily good martini, and stick with the basics—roast chicken, lamb shank, or drunken duck. Matthew Perry had his birthday party here. Full bar. ($$$) Global
Vermont 1714 N. Vermont Ave. (323-661-6163). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The atmosphere is elegant, and the menu includes deliciously prepared standard-bearers like poached salmon, beef fillet, and roast chicken as well as such fanciful creations as a shrimp and arugula salad buzzing with citrus. The flourless chocolate cake is just plain good. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-French
Vida 1930 Hillhurst Ave. (323-660-4446). D nightly. Fred Eric's eccentric presentations can't disguise the fact that he's serving some of our finest meals. A cantilevered appetizer may look like Frank Gehry designed it, but smart and funny don't preclude delicious. Try the Thai Cobb salad; try the grilled rolled rare tuna; try anything. Full bar. ($$$) California
Hollywood/Melrose
Ago 8478 Melrose Ave. (323-655-6333). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. At this sleek, highbrow showcase (co-owned by Robert De Niro), pastas are served piping hot and al dente and pizzas come direct from a brick oven. Entrées include the likes of monkfish with creamy polenta and baby rack of lamb. Full bar. ($$$) Tuscan
Alessi 6602 Melrose Ave. (323-935-1197). D Mon.-Sat. This neighborhood boîte makes elegance inviting. The cuisine is neither fussy nor heavy, just superbly executed. Linguine is al dente, prosciutto pizza has a pastry-thin crust, and osso buco is so tender you can toss your knife. After dinner, linger at the marble-topped bar with a glass of Antigua muscat. Full bar. ($$) Italian
Alex 6703 Melrose Ave. (323-933-5233). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sat. Chef-owner Alex Scrimgeour (SCRIM-jer), ex of Saddle Peak Lodge, has beautifully appointed the old Citrus site and created a menu that goes way beyond the wild ones: knee-weakening foie gras; coriander-crusted skate wings; an exceptional lamb dish with osso buco and a rack on the same plate. Service is perfect. This is the place to celebrate—or simply indulge. Full bar. ($$$) Contemporary European
Ammo 1155 N. Highland Ave. (323-871-2666). B-L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat.; brunch Sat.-Sun. The highly regarded catering company's tiny café sports exposed pipes, paper lanterns, and severe (but comfy) metal chairs and dishes up everything from ten-grain pancakes to turkey burgers, tuna tartare to lasagna, grilled chicken to chocolate mousse layer cake. Beer and wine. ($$) American
Cafe des Artistes 1534 N. McCadden Pl. (323-469-7300). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. A garden complete with fountains and a tree-draped terrace surround this cozy bistro, where the fireplace is always lit. The must-have item is the confit de canard served with green cabbage and sautéed apples—that is, if you're able to eat anything after devouring the jumbo shrimp cocktail. Full bar. ($$$) French
Campanile 624 S. La Brea Ave. (323-938-1447). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton own this beautiful showcase of urban-rustic cuisine that is consistently ranked among L.A.'s finest. The menu changes regularly but might include such innovative concoctions as cedar-smoked trout with fennel salad; rosemary-charred lamb with artichokes, fava beans, and olives; and sour cherry brioche. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-Mediterranean
Carlitos Gardel 7963 Melrose Ave. (323-655-0891). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. One of the city's few Argentine-Italian restaurants—a pity, for it is a wondrous amalgam: cooking built around a great love of beef and an equal affection for garlic. There are skirt steaks, empanadas, and Argentine wines, and big appetites should attempt the mixed grill. Beer and wine. ($$) Argentine-Italian
Chianti 7383 Melrose Ave. (323-653-8333). D nightly. It's dark here, but the menu shines with offerings like fresh black mussels steamed in spiced tomato broth and superb brick-pressed baby chicken marinated in lemon and thyme. The tiramisu is Melrose's creamiest. Full bar. ($$$)
the house 5750 Melrose Ave. (323-462-4687). L-D Tue.-Sun. Scooter Kanfer serves her trademark upscale home cooking—Pop's Pâté, mac and cheese, spoon bread tart du jour—in a handsome dining room. A farmers' market potpie changes seasonally, and the roasted black cod is delish. Dessert includes pots de crème with a thick smudge of chocolate. Beer and wine. ($$$) American
Les Deux Cafés 1638 N. Las Palmas Ave. (323-465-0509). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Even if you're not Somebody, you might fool everyone if proprietress Michele Lamy shows any signs of recognition. The scene, particularly in the garden, is worth the trip, and the menu is bring-on-the-butter French: frisée salad with foie gras and wild mushrooms; potatoes with osetra; pork tenderloin; and sliced chicken breast in a velvety foie gras sauce. Full bar. ($$$) French
Lucky Duck 672 S. La Brea Ave. (323-931-9660). L-D Mon.-Sat. Chef-owner Philip Chiang is cooking his favorite Asian—accent on Chinese—food. He's got a swell crowd and a cool room hung with huge antique scrolls, but the focus is on what comes out of the kitchen: Capitalist Pig, Ugly Dumplings, scallion pancakes, lemon chicken like you've never tasted, and noodles that are meals in themselves. Beer and wine. ($$) Asian
Lucques 8474 Melrose Ave. (323-655-6277). L Tue.-Sat.; D Tue.-Sun. Highlights at Suzanne Goin's foodie mecca include braised beef short ribs with potato puree, greens, and horseradish cream and a prix fixe menu that features the chef's specialties and changes weekly. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-Mediterranean
Mortons 8764 Melrose Ave. (310-276-5205). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. The discerning diner can spy a sprinkling of Big Names fueling up on the likes of overstuffed shrimp quesadillas, crab cakes, filet mignon with seared spinach, and pork chops with horseradish polenta. Close the deal with a hot-fudge sundae. Full bar. ($$$$) American
Musso & Frank Grill 6667 Hollywood Blvd. (323-467-7788). B-L-D Tue.-Sat. The oldest restaurant in Hollywood remains a dark, imposing landmark serving flannel cakes in the morning and short ribs at night, along with the martini against which all others must be judged. The waiters are gruff, experienced, and perfect. Pure Raymond Chandler. Full bar. ($$$) Continental
Nishimura 8684 Melrose Ave. (310-659-4770). L Mon.- Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Sushi chef Hiro Nishimura's spot across from the PDC is cool and minimalist, allowing the food to provide the splash. Warm, coarsely salted edamame, thinly sliced hamachi sashimi with serrano chile and garlic-citrus sauce, abalone sautéed with shiitakes and asparagus, and peppered tuna sashimi are all exquisite. Beer and wine. ($$$$) Japanese
Patina 5955 Melrose Ave. (323-467-1108). L Fri.; D nightly. Joachim Splichal's landmark is one of L.A.'s most consistently acclaimed restaurants. Grilled asparagus with shaved truffles, braised veal cheeks with hand-rolled macaroni, striped bass with white bean mousseline, and a côte du boeuf carved tableside are all, well, kind of perfect. For dessert try the piping hot fruit potpie with vanilla ice cream. Full bar. ($$$$) Cal-French
The Pig 612 N. La Brea Ave. (323-935-1116). L-D Tue.-Sun. The late-night crowd here is as inevitable as the lines at Pink's. Among the must-haves: brisket, an applewood-smoked hunk in a sweet mustard sauce; hickory-smoked baby back ribs; Cajun crusted Mississippi catfish; and Smoky Mountain gumbo with jalapeño corn bread. Dessert? Karo pecan pie. BYOB. ($$) Barbecue
Pinot Hollywood 1448 N. Gower St. (323-461-8800). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. This Joachim Splichal outpost has a pun-filled menu and serious food and wine. Try the crab-and-risotto cake, bacon-wrapped steak with mushroom masheds, or veal short ribs with pumpkin ravioli. The walled-in patio is one of the nicest in L.A. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-French
Sunset Room 1430 N. Cahuenga Blvd. (323-463-0004). D Tue.-Sat. Highlights here include salmon with lemon chutney and Chilean sea bass marinated in soy sauce and sake. Soups (the carrot-and-ginger is delish) and desserts (like the crisp, warm apple tart) are made fresh daily. On weekends, when there's dancing in the lounge, request a booth. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-French/Asian
Yamashiro 1999 N. Sycamore Ave. (323-466-5125). D nightly. The food here—sushi, tempura, and teriyaki—may not match the view, but it's the ideal place to take out-of-towners for a drink and dazzle them with the lights of Hollywood. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-Asian

Beverly Hills

Café Blanc 9777 Little Santa Monica Blvd. (310-888-0108). L-D Tue.-Sat. Gemlike cooking is served in this small, minimalist storefront space, where two prix fixe meals are offered at dinner and the chef does what he wants—which is just fine with the regulars, who come from all over. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-Asian
Chadwick 267 S. Beverly Dr. (310-205-9424). D Mon.- Sat. The menu at Ben Ford and Govind Armstrong's place is imaginative and confident, spiked with crisp sweetbread and wild mushroom cannelloni, seared frog legs with shallot and chanterelle custard, grilled scallops, and Roquefort-stuffed tenderloin. Full bar. ($$$) California
Da Pasquale 9749 Little Santa Monica Blvd. (310-859-3884). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. This authentic trattoria serves first-rate pasta, pizza, and fresh fish. The sautéed seafood appetizer comes in a luscious broth perfect for scooping with the pizza bread. Desserts include a tartuffo of chocolate gelato encased in a dark chocolate crust—like an ice cream pop, only better. Beer and wine. ($$$) Southern Italian
De Mori 421 N. Rodeo Dr. (310-274-1500). L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Silvio de Mori, formerly of Mimosa and Cafe des Artistes, has bravely taken on the Reata space tucked below street level behind La Perla—ideal for lingerie lovers. The outdoor patio is festive for lunch and early dinner, and the inside is a banquetted wash of Ralph Lauren and Martha. The food's Italian to the core, from pizzas to pastas to polentas, calamari to carpaccio to veal and lamb chops. Tiramisu for dessert. Full bar. ($$$) Northern Italian
New Frida 236 S. Beverly Dr. (310-278-7666). L-D daily. Dozens of cream-colored candles dot the tiny space, brand-new religious iconography is mounted perfectly on the walls, and the glasses are the thick kind you get with chip-and-dip sets. This is the Z Gallerie of Mexican restaurants—with snappy food. The shrimp ceviche pops; the mole poblano is thick and dark. For dessert, the pastel de tres leches and a thick flan are bueno. Full bar. ($$$) Mexican
Ginza Sushi-Ko Two Rodeo, 218 N. Via Rodeo (310-247-8939). L-D Mon.-Sat. On the second floor of an opulent mall sits this exclusive room, where the tab can run upwards of $300 a person (there's no menu to check prices). Those who can afford to eat here claim they serve the best sushi this side of Tokyo, citing exotic fish dishes you've probably never heard of. Beer and wine. ($$$$) Japanese
Il Cielo 9018 Burton Way (310-276-9990). L-D Mon.-Sat. Pasquale Vericella's dreamy little garden spot has been the site of many a tryst and more than a few weddings. Come in for homemade pasta, or try the Italian sea bass, grilled whole and filleted tableside. Full bar. ($$$) Northern Italian
Kate Mantilini 9101 Wilshire Blvd. (310-278-3699). B-L-D daily. An informal and moderately trendy spot where movie buzz fills the tables and Americana rules the kitchen. Faves include meat loaf, grilled chicken, burgers, and candy bar-ice cream pie. Full bar. ($$$) American
Mako 225 S. Beverly Dr. (310-288-8338). L Wed.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. The open kitchen is almost as large as the blond-wood dining room of this outstanding restaurant. Mako Tanaka and crew balletically whip up crispy oyster and pickled beet salads and wok-sautéed sea bass with rapini and mushrooms in a spicy sun-dried-tomato sauce for a well-dressed clientele. A menu of small-plate portions is a recent addition. Full bar. ($$$) Asian-Mediterranean
Maple Drive 345 N. Maple Dr. (310-274-9800). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Not much has changed here since its opening in '89, when gourmet meat loaf was avant-garde. Anchoring the building that houses Elektra and DreamWorks offices, it is still a lunchtime haunt for Industry types and should be more of a hot spot at night. The food's great, from Kick Ass Chili to sevruga, grilled cod with capers to rack of lamb—and meat loaf. The bar has a civil lounge area where chatting is an attainable goal. Full bar. ($$$$) Comfort Food
Mariposa Neiman Marcus, 9700 Wilshire Blvd. (310-550-5900). L Mon.-Sat. Some in-store cafés are simply places to refuel. This one, on the ground floor of Neiman's, is a destination in its own right—lush and comfortable, with great service. And surprisingly good food, from Petrossian beluga with toast points to a Cobb salad with lobster and avocado to beef tenderloin with goat cheese masheds. If you've already tried on the bathing suit, go for the banana split or chocolate pot de crème. Full bar. ($$$) California
Mastro's Steakhouse 246 N. Canon Dr. (310-888-8782). D nightly. This place is serious about its meat: hand-cut USDA prime served with the bone in on 400-degree plates. Supreme. It's also serious about its martinis, which come in full-size shakers left at your table. Lots of stately fishes to choose from as well. Downstairs is dark and serious; upstairs is a happening bar scene with live music for an over-40 crowd. Full bar. ($$$$) Steak House
Mr Chow 344 N. Camden Dr. (310-278-9911). L Mon.- Fri.; D nightly. This is one of those celebrity restaurants where stars actually show up to get away from being seen. Prices are high—particularly if you let the waiter order for you—but the cooking is good. Specialties include green prawns (marinated in spinach), drunken fish (fillet of sole poached in rice wine sauce), handmade noodles, and gambler's duck (marinated, steamed, fried, and shredded). Full bar. ($$$) Chinese
Nic's 453 N. Canon Dr. (310-550-5707). D Mon.-Sat. Larry Nicola has one cool supper club/martini lounge. Nic's Oysters—lightly sautéed, with spinach, garlic, and walnuts—are brisk, baby. Live music nightly. Full bar. ($$$) Contemporary American
Pammolli Ristorante 9513 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-273-7588). L-D Mon.-Sat. Massimo Ormani, who spent more than a decade at Locanda Veneta, and wife Daniela have a romantic charmer where tiny greens are perfectly dressed and scattered with almonds, leek and crabmeat risotto is infused with lemon, and an oven-roasted veal shank comes with buttered baby carrots. Desserts like Piedmont-style hazelnut cake with candied orange keep the Tuscan theme going, and the well-culled wine list is reasonably priced. Full bar. ($$$) Tuscan
Piccolo Paradiso 150 S. Beverly Dr. (310-271-0030). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. This is indeed a "little paradise," thanks to Giacomino Drago, who is still in the kitchen at Il Pastaio as well. Images from Cinema Paradiso (his favorite movie) are projected on the walls. Salads and antipasti are simple and perfect. Entrées of note include rigatoni with wild boar ragout and veal shank with polenta. The dessert menu could use a little fine-tuning. Beer and wine. ($$) Italian
Polo Lounge Beverly Hills Hotel, 9641 Sunset Blvd. (310-276-2251). B-L-D daily; brunch Sun. This was a power-breakfast spot before there was such a thing. Tried-and-true favorites, including the McCarthy salad, are as good as ever. There are even a few updates, like the appetizer of shrimp and scallops stir-fried with sweet chile sauce and shredded green papaya. Full bar. ($$$) California/Asian
Reign 180 N. Robertson Blvd. (310-273-4463). D nightly. Regulars at Keyshawn (Buccaneers wide receiver) Johnson's restaurant know to put in two orders of the smothered pork chops (one to take home) and that there's always room for fried green tomatoes, peach cobbler, and a banana cream pie that's decadence-in-a-dish. Full bar. ($$$) Contemporary Southern & Soul
Spago Beverly Hills 176 N. Canon Dr. (310-385-0880). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. You've read the books, seen the TV show—now sit at the table. Who doesn't know about Wolfgang Puck's California cuisine? What could be ordinary—crawfish salad, filet mignon tartare, yellowtail, veal chop, lobster with asparagus puree—becomes, in the hands of chef Lee Hefter, quite extraordinary. Sherry Yard's desserts are equally divine. Full bar. ($$$) California
Temple 14 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-360-9460). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Jun and So Yon Kim, brother-and-sister fashion designers, have a stunning upscale Korean dining room and patio. Food's swell, too. There's an extraordinary squash-and-pumpkin soup flavored with cinnamon and honey, sesame-crusted arctic char that sits on a mushroom-risotto cake, and Korean kimchi stew that's redolent of tofu and sliced pork. It's all good. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-Korean
Trader Vic's Beverly Hilton Hotel, 9876 Wilshire Blvd. (310-276-6345). D nightly. You've had a few tiki drinks, sipped from a flaming coconut, and think you know Trader Vic's. Ha. Scoot around to the back dining room—where you can actually see across the table—and you're in a yesteryear of red leather booths, brass railings, giant menus, and solicitous waiters. The real surprise is the delicious food: artfully arranged sushi, whole lobsters, cashew chicken, and great steaks. Keep the mai tais to a minimum, and savor the flavor. Full bar. ($$$) International

Westwood/ West L.A.

Bel-Air Bar & Grill 662 N. Sepulveda Blvd., Bel-Air (310-440-5544). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Amber lighting and a fireplace warm up the deconstructionist decor at this restaurant-cum-elegant bar. Menu highlights include arugula and beet salad, bouillabaisse with lobster-saffron broth, and pan-roasted salmon with scallop-saffron risotto. Full bar. ($$$) American
Bombay Cafe 12021 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A. (310-473-3388). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This Westside fave is cheery and informal, the nan is light, and the fatehpur special—shahi jhinga (marinated jumbo shrimp), boti kabobs (tender lamb chunks), and mirch-masala tikka (marinated chicken)—is more than enough for two. Full bar. ($$) Indian
Breeze Century Plaza Hotel, 2025 Avenue of the Stars, Century City (310-551-3334). B-L-D daily; brunch Sun. Stop here on your way to or from the Entertainment Center across the street. It's spacious and quiet, and the food is stellar: clams and oysters on the half shell, peeky toe crab cakes, king salmon with artichoke ravioli, thick pork chops with white cheddar macaroni. Desserts—particularly the tarte Tatin with cinnamon cream—live up to all that goes before. Full bar. ($$$) California Eclectic
El Dorado Cantina 11777 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood (310-207-0150). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sun. Even in L.A. a velvet-rope Mexican restaurant is unusual. But so it is at this handsome spot where the scene is at the bar, but the food's tasty, too. Alongside standard enchilada and taco fare are a silky corn soup, melt-in-your-mouth carne asada, and spicy pollo mole. Desserts are full of surprises: warm chocolate-chile truffle cake, orange flan, and an apple empanada. Full bar. ($$$) Mexican
Four Oaks 2181 N. Beverly Glen Blvd., Bel-Air (310-470-3623). L Tue.-Sat.; D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sun. This secluded garden restaurant smacks of the fine eateries of Provence, where the tables wobble, the service can be bemused, but the chef is always on the money. Full bar. ($$$) French/American
HamaSaku 11043 Santa Monica Blvd., West L.A. (310-479-7636). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. It's easy to order a medley of starters and call it a meal at this Mike Ovitz-backed minimall spot—spicy tuna ravioli (sublime), tuna tartare in a martini glass, and tuna sushi all come on a single plate. The mixed tempura is flawless, and the salmon sashimi roll is wrapped in cucumber with caviar. Entrées include rack of lamb, chicken teriyaki, assorted sushi and sashimi dinners, and an outstanding omakase. Beer and wine. ($$$) Japanese
La Cachette 10506 S. Santa Monica Blvd. (310-470-4992). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Master French chef Jean François Meteigner serves his exquisite food in a beautiful dining room presided over by his wife, Allie Ko. From Petrossian caviar to foie gras terrine, from Marseilles bouillabaisse to sweetbreads with black chanterelle-morel sauce, from venison medallions to braised lamb shank with golden raisins, it's all extraordinary. Full bar. ($$$) French
La Serenata Gourmet 10924 W. Pico Blvd., West L.A. (310-441-9667). B Sat.-Sun.; L-D daily. A revelation, with hand-patted tortillas, fresh chips dusted with grated añejo cheese, and guava and watermelon juices. The menu's loaded with interesting seafood items, not to mention a wonderful garlicked beef tongue in tomatillo sauce. Beer and wine. ($$) Mexican
Napa Valley Grille 1100 Glendon Ave., Westwood (310-824-3322). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sun. A retail area out front sells assorted olive oils, a sleek bar offers tables for grazing, and the main dining room is Westwood's most sophisticated. The theme is wine country, and there's a good list of vintages sold by the glass and the half bottle. The food is upscale country club—fresh oysters, roasted beet and goat cheese ravioli, chicken under a brick, and roasted sturgeon with dumplings. Full bar. ($$$) Wine Country/American
Pastina 2260 Westwood Blvd., Westwood (310-441-4655). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Want to get the Boot without any attitude? This small, friendly white-tablecloth place prepares home-style versions of Italian favorites: bresaola with arugula and shaved Parmesan, a tasty Caesar, pizzas, tender sautéed veal, and a full menu of pastas, from penne arrabiata to traditional lasagna. Food the way they make it in the old country. Full bar. ($$) Italian
Restaurant at the Getty Center 1200 Getty Center Dr., West L.A. (310-440-6810). L Tue.-Sat.; D Fri.-Sat.; brunch Sun. You'll spot Getty architect Richard Meier and art-world bigwigs in this reservations-only dining room in the sky. Everything from the classic California cuisine to the wraparound vistas—stunning at sundown—is perfect at this lovely museum restaurant. Full bar. ($$$) California
Sushi Sasabune 11300 Nebraska Ave., West L.A. (310-268-8380). L-D Mon.-Fri. Spanish mackerel, Japanese octopus, toro, and other swimmers are so fresh they practically snap at you. Diners seated at the bar must observe a strict chef's-choice menu: You eat what Nobi wants, how he wants. Trust him. Beer and wine. ($$$) Japanese
Tanino 1043 Westwood Blvd., Westwood (310-208-0444). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The food at this Drago brother's upstairs/downstairs spot is superb. Starters include calamari stew, carpaccio, and artichoke salad with pecorino. And it's hard to go wrong with the main courses: pumpkin and sage lasagna, risotto with shrimp and truffles, grilled ahi, T-bone with baby bok choy. Velvety panna cotta with a berry compote is the ultimate kicker. Full bar. ($$$) Italian
Tengu 10845 Lindbrook Dr., Westwood (310-209-0071). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This Japanese joint rivals eurochow in Westwood's places-to-be-seen stakes. A three-sided bar is ever hopping, and the adjacent restaurant-cum-sushi bar is always packed. The sushi is fresh and prettily presented, and the tempura is delightful. The coconut ice cream (billed as sorbet) is served in a coconut husk and hits the spot. Full bar. ($$$) Japanese
Toscana 11633 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood (310-820-2448). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly. There's no place to stand in this popular trattoria while you wait in one of the loudest rooms around. Why is it so packed? Because the food is solid Italian, served in large portions—so much like the real thing that the pizza crunches when you bite into it and the waiters yell in Italian. Beer and wine. ($$$) Italian
Zax 11604 San Vicente Blvd., Brentwood (310- 571-3800). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. Chef Brooke Williamson's one to watch. Her appetizers include a tasty salad of grilled endive with burrata, apricots, and walnuts, and entrées like halibut with escarole and a grapefruit emulsion are outstanding. Ditto the braised short ribs with Israeli couscous. A mint ice cream sandwich is the standout dessert. Beer and wine. ($$$) Contemporary California

Marina Del Rey

Cafe del Rey 4451 Admiralty Way, Marina del Rey (310-823-6395). L-D daily; brunch Sun. Well-heeled Marina types come here for everything from black bean soup to pizza to sushi to Thai shellfish sausage. While the entrées seem overzealous—grilled pesto salmon with a lobster-mousse timbale, seared cauliflower, caramelized carrots, and citrus-fennel sauce—they're all tasty, as is the Grand Marnier chocolate soufflé. Full bar. ($$$) Fusion
Caffè Pinguini 6935 Pacific Ave., Playa del Rey (310-306-0117). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. This Southern Californian Roman holiday comes complete with frescoes, authentic cuisine, and waiters from the old country. The spinach appetizer with olive oil and pepperoncini is a real standout, while everything from the rigatoni Gorgonzola to the veal piccata is molto bene. Beer and wine. ($$) Italian

Culver City/Venice

Axe 1009 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-664-9787). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. The atmosphere is minimalist, but the food is hearty and delicious. After an appetizer of grilled flatbread served with a trio of spreads—hummus, eggplant, and caramelized onions—tuck into miso-marinated poached halibut or duck leg confit with plum-orange-cilantro sauce. Dessert? Chocolate brownie pudding or peach cobbler. Beer and wine. ($$$) Eclectic
Canal Club 2025 Pacific Ave., Venice (310-823-3878). D nightly. A giant sushi and oyster bar anchors this stylish space (one of Frank Gehry's early landmarks). Appetizers range from sesame noodles and beef tacos to tempura chicken and eggplant fritters. Entrées include grilled swordfish with red bean puree and an exquisite porterhouse. Full bar. ($$$) International Beach
Chaya Venice 110 Navy St., Venice (310-396-1179). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Talk about a jumpin' joint. Happy hour's a mob of the sleek and chic at this Asian moderne happening, and the food is always top-notch. Everything, from carpaccio, sashimi, sushi, and seaweed salad to the pastas and the vegetarian plate, is superbly prepared. Full bar. ($$$) French/Asian
Five Dudley 5 Dudley Ave., Venice (310-399-6678). D Tue.-Sun. The menu is an oral tradition at this tiny place next to the beach, and the food is fab: vanilla-bean asparagus soup, a great Caesar (eaten without utensils), a giant lamb shank on a bed of saffron risotto, and the best monkfish in town, cooked in a cylinder of crisped potato on a pillow of sunchoke mousse. Homey desserts. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-French
Hal's Bar & Grill 1349 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-396-3105). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. The main hang for Venice's artsy crowd, this room is home to one of the city's supreme Caesar salads as well as fine grilled dishes—including an outstanding vegetable plate—served in a space that would work just as well in SoHo, except the attitude level is turned way down. Full bar. ($$) California
James' Beach 60 N. Venice Blvd., Venice (310-823-5396). L Wed.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. The menu at James Evans's restaurant—which has a strong and loyal local following—couples fresh takes on American classics such as chicken potpie and Maine lobster with the likes of panfried sand dabs and grilled portabella. Don't skip the chocolate soufflé. Full bar. ($$) American
Joe's Restaurant 1023 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-399-5811). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. Joe Miller's subtly stylish restaurant is a Venice landmark that serves upscale creative food at moderate prices and was an early pioneer on what's now Restaurant Row. Entrées include beef risotto with grilled asparagus and crispy chicken with a spring vegetable ragout. Full bar. ($$) Cal-French
Lilly's 1031 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-314-0004). L-D daily; brunch Sun. Here's a delightful café with outstanding food. Check out the goat cheese and leek tart, wild mushrooms and asparagus tucked in puff pastry, or the crispy salad of fennel, cucumber, and celery with olives and goat cheese. The fish bourride and the thick sirloin steak with green beans and potato gratin are top entrées. Dive into the floating island for dessert. Beer and wine. ($$$) French
Primitivo Wine Bistro 1025 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-396-5353). D Mon.-Sat. Tapas rule! Outstanding fried calamari, decadent cheese plates, and all manner of Spanish meats both cooked and deli style are a small sampling of the menu here, where standard entrées are also a possibility. An extraordinary selection of wines by the glass, a minimal-chic room with cement floors, and a cool but non-snooty vibe have made this an instant favorite on Restaurant Row. Beer and wine. ($$-$$$) Mediterranean
Wabi Sabi 1635 Abbot Kinney Blvd., Venice (310-396-8857). D nightly. This is the joint. Venice finally has a good sushi bar—superior fish beautifully presented—and a real neighborhood restaurant. Table hopping—no air kissing—is rife. An extensive sushi menu is complemented by a few salads (pear and candied walnut), appetizers (popcorn-crusted chicken wings), and entrées (bouillabaisse ladled over a chewy rice cake, tender beef fillet with pumpkin puree). Asian-spiced desserts, if you've got any room. Full bar. ($$) Japanese

Santa Monica

The Beach House 100 W. Channel Rd. (310-454-8299). D Tue.-Sun. This romantic, candlelit spot serves good food in warm, elegant surroundings—often to a collection of Industry heavyweights. The bar scene in back, once scarily crowded and trendy, has calmed down considerably, which makes the cozy annex great for a drink. Full bar. ($$$) American
Border Grill 1445 4th St. (310-451-1655). L Tue.-Sun.; D nightly. Mary Sue Milliken and Susan Feniger's hip cantina serves creations like rock shrimp ceviche in serrano-lime marinade and plantain empanadas stuffed with black beans, poblanos, and cheese, then topped with chipotle salsa and Mexican crema. Key lime pie for dessert. Full bar. ($$) Mexican/Latin American
Buffalo Club 1520 Olympic Blvd. (310-450-8600). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Don't be fooled by the drab exterior. Inside it's men's club elegant, and the food fits the scene: hush puppies alongside lamb chops, onion rings made with chili, and pot roast that can be ordered with a side of mac and Vermont cheddar. For dessert try the disgustingly divine pecan-pie-crumble sundae with bittersweet chocolate sauce. Full bar. ($$$) American
Capo 1810 Ocean Ave. (310-394-5550). D Tue.-Sat. This tiny, romantic room sits smack on the ocean (no views, though) next to the Santa Monica Pier. The menu is short and simple—filet mignon, rack of lamb, lobster risotto et al.—and the ingredients are exquisite. Finish with candied bread pudding. Full bar. ($$$$) Italian
Chez Jay 1657 Ocean Ave. (310-395-1741). L-D daily; brunch Sun. Across the street from the Santa Monica Pier, Chez Jay may be the perfect L.A. restaurant: sawdust on the floor, Dino on the jukebox, and beachcombers and movie directors elbow-to-elbow at the bar. The food—steamed clams, swordfish, steak—is really just another good excuse for one more round. Full bar. ($$) American
Chez Mimi 246 26th St. (310-393-0558). L Tue.-Sat.; D Tue.-Sun. The setting—two stone cottages linked with a patio—is as French as the food. Hors d'oeuvres include escargots, smoked salmon, and puff pastry with chèvre. Entrées are indulgent: bouillabaisse with lobster and shrimp, veal chops with truffle-vinegar sauce, calf's liver sautéed in lemon sauce. Tarte Tatin with homemade ice cream for dessert. Full bar. ($$$) French
Chinois on Main 2709 Main St. (310-392-9025). L Wed.-Fri.; D nightly. The salads and the sashimi appetizer are exquisite and light, but the entrées tend to be heavy. That doesn't mean they aren't tasty: Cantonese duck, barbecued salmon with black and gold pasta, and bottarga are some of the stars. For dessert indulge in the crème brûlée trio. Full bar. ($$$) French/Chinese
Father's Office 1018 Montana Ave. (310-393-BEER). D nightly. This is a bar, emphasis on beer, and entrance age is 21. Chef-owner Sang Yoon, ex of Michael's, makes primo tapas that are well worth the trip: imported jamón serrano, spicy olives, and house-cured white anchovies. He's also got one of L.A.'s best burgers, made with Gruyère and Maytag blue and served on a perfectly toasted bun stuffed with arugula. No table service; order at the bar. Beer and wine. ($) Tapas
Ivy at the Shore 1541 Ocean Ave. (310-393-3113). L-D daily. The Ivy's ocean-adjacent outpost sports a tropical-beach-shack decor and patio, and as on Robertson, the food is excellent and the celeb sightings frequent. Why mess with perfection? Full bar. ($$$) American
JiRaffe 502 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-917-6671). L Tue.-Fri.; D nightly. The food is elegant, with lots of fresh vegetables and dishes accented with intense flavors. Imagine purple Peruvian potato gnocchi with rock shrimp, roast rabbit with polenta, or a caramelized pork chop with cider sauce. Warm chocolate truffle cake for dessert. Full bar. ($$) French Rustic
Josie 2424 Pico Blvd. (310-581-9888). D Mon.-Sat. Chef Josie LeBalch indulges her flair for Italian, French, and game, which means creations like seared baby cuttlefish on a bed of warm sausage-studded lentils, fennel and persimmon salad, rack of lamb with a marmalade onion-potato tart, fish tagine with preserved lemon, or Texas wild boar. Crumble or lemon zabaglione for dessert. Full bar. ($$$) Progressive American
La Serenata 1416 4th St. (310-656-7017). L-D daily. This installment of one of L.A.'s primo Mexican franchises is more upscale than the others. Better yet, reservations and margaritas are available. The food is as sabroso as ever: fresh seafood, beef, and chicken in a variety of exquisite sauces and classics (enchiladas, burritos, and tacos) that are out of this world. So is the flan. Full bar. ($$) Mexican
The Lobster 1602 Ocean Ave. (310-458-9294). L-D daily. Quality doesn't cede to quantity at this packed showcase on the Santa Monica Pier. The beach-style menu is upped a notch with dishes like jumbo lump crab cakes, knockout spicy Louisiana prawns with dirty rice, perfectly seared ahi with sautéed spinach—and of course, fresh steamed Maine lobster. For dessert it's the sensational strawberry shortcake or devil's food cake. Full bar. ($$$) Seafood
Mélisse 1104 Wilshire Blvd. (310-395-0881). L Thur.-Fri.; D nightly. The tariff is steep at this foodie mecca, but the cuisine—Mandarin tomato soup with goat cheese- sweet garlic flan, mille-feuille of ahi tartare with fennel sauce and tapenade, wild king salmon with lima bean puree—is exquisite. Cheese plates are a big deal here, as is the ever-changing chef's menu. Full bar. ($$$$) French/American
Michael's 1147 3rd St. (310-451-0843). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. The garden here is still the most romantic in town. Sautéed spot prawns are served with carrot pesto and jalapeño oil, and rosemary-chicken liver mousse comes with crostini. As for the main courses, whether it's a seared, rare salmon with pea puree or a classic dry-aged steak with pommes frites, it's all good. The staff are particularly well versed in the wine list, so feel free to go with their flow. Full bar. ($$$) California
One Pico Shutters at the Beach, 1 Pico Blvd. (310-587-1717). L-D daily. With its ocean view, high ceilings, and fireplace, this light-filled restaurant gets almost nothing wrong: grilled shrimp with orange butter, house-cured salmon with corn cakes and crème fraîche, oysters with a dab of caviar and lemongrass cream, truffle-scented salmon, and perfectly grilled lamb chops. In season, strawberry shortcake for dessert. Full bar. ($$$) California
Patrick's Roadhouse 106 Entrada Dr. at Pacific Coast Hwy. (310-459-4544). B-L daily. You'll find Arnold, Tom, Mike, and Jeff—along with an army of followers—at this rambunctious café that serves breakfasts bigger than most stomachs. No alcohol. No credit cards. ($) American
Rebecca's 101 Broadway (310-260-1100). L-D daily. This venerable Venice standby features Mexican standards—tamales, tacos, enchiladas et al.—but the cocktail selection shows a little more flair: almond margaritas, macho martinis (with jalapeños), and a concoction called Latin Lover, which we surmise includes a shot of stamina. Full bar. ($$) Mexican/Seafood
Röckenwagner 2435 Main St. (310-399-6504). D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Hans Röckenwagner serves up the dishes that made a name for him: crab soufflé, lamb, tiered salmon, and breakfasts of bread and cheese, a pleasure unduplicated anywhere else in town. Full bar. ($$$) Euro-California
Sam's 108 W. Channel Rd. (310-230-9100). D Tue.-Sat.; brunch Sun. Owner Samir Elias is showcasing the Mediterranean here: Sea urchin on arugula, bluefin tuna tartare, red pepper soup, and grilled escolar served with citrus fruits are all outstanding. The milk custard in a phyllo bird's nest with rose water syrup is an exotic kicker. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-Mediterranean
Sushi Roku 1401 Ocean Ave. (310-458-4771). L Mon.- Sat.; D nightly. As the name implies, sushi is the star of the show at this offshoot of the West Hollywood hot spot, but the menu also includes noodles, soups, tempura, and a large selection of hot and cold appetizers—grilled lamb kabobs or mixed seafood ceviche, for example. The gray-toned setting is warm but minimalist and the bar scene lively. Full bar. ($$$) Japanese
Union 1413 5th St. (310-656-9688). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. There's bossa nova playing in the bar/lounge upstairs, a pounded-copper communal table on the dreamy patio outside, and artsy waterfalls in the main dining room downstairs. The food is pure Americana: grilled T-bone with potato puree, sautéed duck breast with braised brussels sprouts, and baked spiced shrimp gratin. Don't head upstairs until you try the cheese plate. Full bar. ($$$) American
Valentino 3115 Pico Blvd. (310-829-4313). L Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Piero Selvaggio's flagship changed the way we perceive Italian cooking, and his standards rival those of the finest restaurants worldwide. He seduces us with the best white truffles, the purest olive oils, and the tenderest prosciutto. Full bar. ($$$) Italian
World Café 2820 Main St. (310-392-1661). L Tue.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. Graying yuppies, Gap-styled kids, name-tagged parties, and surfers with dreads and full-body art keep the scene at this local favorite as eclectic as the menu: Harlem drum rolls with collard greens; wood-fired pizzas with pesto, shrimp, goat cheese, and pine nuts; and daily steak specials. For dessert, chocolate-chip banana-bread pudding. Everyone is in the candlelit lounge or dining alfresco (and lighting up) on the tropical, twinkly-lighted patio. Full bar. ($$$) Creative California

Malibu/Pacific Palisades

Geoffrey's 27400 Pacific Coast Hwy., Malibu (310-457-1519). L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. Lots of folks come here for the romance only a cliff-top restaurant with a great view of the Pacific can provide. But the food—fine California cuisine—is well worth the trip. Start off with ahi tartare or a little baked Brie in puff pastry before heading into the likes of New Zealand rack of lamb stuffed with feta and steamed Maine lobster. Then walk it off on the beach. Full bar. ($$$) California
Granita 23725 W. Malibu Rd., Malibu (310-456-0488). D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. After tasting Jennifer Naylor's cooking—almond-blackberry pancakes with lemon curd for brunch, morel mushroom lasagna with purple asparagus or ahi with a spicy miso glaze, soba noodles, and sesame crisps for dinner—at Wolfgang Puck's Malibu outpost, even the saddest souls will want to skip their Prozac. The sorbets and granitas burst with flavor. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-Mediterranean
Nobu Malibu Country Mart, 3835 Cross Creek Rd., Malibu (310-317-9140). L Sat.-Sun.; D nightly. At Nobu Matsuhisa's cozy coastal hot spot, ceviche is a spicy mélange of shrimp and fish marinated in lemon juice and rice vinegar; the tiradito plate is a flower-shaped arrangement of whitefish; and the sushi and sashimi are standard-bearers. For dessert, try the bento box with green tea ice cream and chocolate soufflé or broiled plums with a meringue puff, ginger ice cream, and a cookie. Full bar. ($$$) Japanese
Pearl Dragon 15229 Sunset Blvd., Pacific Palisades (310-459-9790). L-D daily. This is the only restaurant in the Palisades with a liquor license and is a pleasant place for the usual sushi suspects, Vietnamese potstickers, lobster-and-shiitake dynamite, Asian-lacquered chicken, and a "wing ding burger with fries." The same fries with a little chili thrown in are billed as Szechuan pommes frites. Whatever. Full bar. ($$$) Pan-Asian
Saddle Peak Lodge 419 Cold Canyon Rd., Calabasas (818-222-3888). D Wed.-Sun.; brunch Sun. Deer and moose heads give the three-story landmark a clubby feel, and the food is wild—literally: rack of venison, roast pheasant breast in herbs, and a game tasting plate of buffalo, crispy-skin duck, and elk. Everything is elegant, meticulously seasoned, and expertly cooked. The banana-and-walnut bread pudding is served with—what else?—Wild Turkey caramel sauce. Full bar. ($$$) American

San Fernando Valley

Bistro Garden at Coldwater 12950 Ventura Blvd., Studio City (818-501-0202). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The prettiest room in the Valley is light and airy if a bit noisy. Menu highlights include poached salmon with champagne-caviar sauce and an elk chop with red cabbage, spaetzle, and chestnut-ginger sauce. Full bar. ($$$) Continental
Cafe Bizou 14016 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818-788-3536). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly; brunch Sat.-Sun. There are two prominent features here: a lively French menu and remarkably low prices. The setting is casual, reservations hard to land. Helping things along is a bring-your-own-wine, $2-per-bottle corkage policy. Full bar. ($) French/Continental
Le Petit Bistro 13360 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818-501-7999). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The atmosphere is convivial yet intimate, the food excellent. The authentic bistro fare includes black mussels marinara, frog legs, veal sausage, baby lamb chops, and profiteroles. Also at 631 N. La Cienega Blvd. (310-289-9797). Beer and wine. ($$) French
Marrakesh 13003 Ventura Blvd., Studio City (818-788-6354). D nightly. A great spot for letting go in a fantasy of plush cushions, huge orders of chicken bistilla, and mint tea poured from a great height—at some of the best prices in town. The bill goes up if you indulge the belly dancer. Full bar. ($$) Moroccan
Max 13355 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818-784-2915). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Linq ex-chef Andre Guerrero and partner Michael Lamb, Saddle Peak's former wine manager, have a delightful Asian-inspired menu and a restaurant that is an instant hit. Highlights include coconut-lemongrass soup, an ahi tower layered with seaweed, wok-sautéed filet mignon on potato-mushroom hash, and Indian coriander-crusted cod with lemon-cashew basmati rice. The flourless chocolate cake is simultaneously dense and light. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-Asian
Pinot Bistro 12969 Ventura Blvd., Studio City (818-990-0500). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. After the success of Patina, Joachim Splichal followed up with a restaurant serving classic bistro fare: potato and artichoke terrine with niçois olives, French onion soup with Gruyère, seared skate wing with wilted frisée, lamb pot-au-feu, and sweetbread lasagna. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-French
Posto 14928 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks (818-784-4400). D Mon.-Sat. Playful Italian fare is the specialty here. Starters like flaky salmon crepes and serene potato-and-squash soup set up the entrées for a potentially dangerous anticlimax, so skip the tagliatelle and try the juicy grilled chicken breast with sausage. Then it's time for chocolate ravioli. Full bar. ($$$) Italian
Tournesol 13251 Ventura Blvd., Studio City (818-986-3190). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. This cheery yellow bistro, named for the sunflower, runs a solid Gallic gamut with escargots, duck à l'orange, and filet mignon. Waiters dole out palate-cleansing spoonfuls of sorbet between courses, and desserts include a house specialty of chocolate mousse surrounded by a fan of wafers and shaped like—what else—a sunflower. Full bar. ($$$) French

Glendale/Pasadena/San Gabriel Valley

Bice 260 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena (626-793-0468). D Tue.-Sun. It's back. White linens and fine food are the hallmarks in a pretty room that anchors the Paseo Colorado mall. Have your sautéed foie gras on truffled potato puree, your salmon carpaccio with tapenade, your risotto, your steak or rack of lamb. But don't consider an exit without bombolini, doughnut-like pastries served with vanilla and dark chocolate dipping sauces. Full bar. ($$$) Italian
Bistro 45 45 S. Mentor Ave., Pasadena (626-795-2478). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. Squirreled away on a side street, this art deco bistro is one of the Rose City's best-kept secrets—a romantic space with one of the finest wine lists in town and monthly dinners with wine makers. Full bar. ($$$) Cal-French
Celestino Ristorante 141 S. Lake St., Pasadena (626-795-4006). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Celestino, the oldest of the Drago brothers, serves regional and seasonal southern Italian dishes. From figs with delicately draped prosciutto to arugula and artichoke salad, from ricotta-stuffed cannelloni to a grilled T-bone with roasted potatoes, from a special tropical fruit sorbet to a creamy tiramisu, everything is done just right. Full bar. ($$$) Sicilian
Madre's 897 Granite Dr., Pasadena (626-744-0900). L-D daily. Play the CDs, see the movies, wear the lingerie, and now, eat the food. J.Lo has opened a Cuban restaurant where Pinot at the Chronicle was housed. Shabby Chic's Rachel Ashwell did the feminine interiors, which are grounded by dark wood floors and overseen by mismatched chandeliers. The menu is hearty—pork, chicken, and beef; fried bananas; rice and beans—and secondary to the filled-to-capacity scene: ladies who lunch by day, hipsters and hangers-on by night. Full bar. ($$$) Cuban
Maison Akira 713 E. Green St., Pasadena (626-796-9501). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sun. The best of Paris and Tokyo are melded on this menu. Seared foie gras with a port wine-truffle sauce on a bed of assorted mushrooms is a sublime precursor to the grilled sea bass in lemon-honey dressing with small rounds of zucchini. The mixed berry feuilletée could be the work of a five-star patisserie. Beer and wine. ($$$) French-Japanese
Nonya 61 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena (626-583-8398). L Sun.-Fri.; D nightly. Hankering for a nice, romantic Peranakan nibble? The Singapore-based blend of Malay and Chinese cuisine tastes more familiar than it sounds: spicy pumpkin soup, exquisite mango and halibut salad, tender drunken shrimp. The beef and eggplant curry is luxuriously rich. Banana rolls might be sufficiently exotic dessertwise, unless you're into slippery herbal jellies in coconut milk. Full bar. ($$) Peranakan
Parkway Grill 510 S. Arroyo Pkwy., Pasadena (626-795-1001). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Fresh is as fresh does at this Eastside culinary bastion, where the greens and herbs are grown out back. Creatively sauced and sided standards like pork tenderloin and filet mignon share the bill with whole fried catfish. Don't pass on the crème brûlée napoleon. Full bar. ($$$) California
The Raymond 1250 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena (626-441-3136). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun.; brunch Sat.-Sun. One of our most romantic spots is housed in an understated restored bungalow with fireplaces and gardens. For starters try the figs, fresh from the restaurant's tree, wrapped in pancetta. Entrées include succulent rack of lamb with Grand Marnier sauce. Full bar. ($$$) American
Restaurant Devon 109 E. Lemon Ave., Monrovia (626-305-0013). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. Ask for a booth at this standard-bearer in Monrovia's old downtown, where exec chef Pedro Simental creates fantasy concoctions ranging from sashimi to black bear ravioli, from calf's liver with capers to caribou medallions to free-range chicken breast. Desserts are festively tweaked: crème brûlée in phyllo dough and Grand Marnier-brushed peaches with blue cheese ice cream. Good wine list. Beer and wine. ($$$) Cal-French
Restaurant Halie 1030 E. Green St., Pasadena (626-440-7067). D Tue.-Sun. Chinese-red walls, giant gilt-framed mirrors, and candlelight give this bar, lounge, and restaurant that lovin' feeling. It's set in the historic Cheesewright building, where Einstein worked in the '40s. Service is elegant, and the food follows suit: tuna tartare with wasabi caviar, paper-thin gravlax with pepper brioche, porcini-dusted halibut, and dry-aged rib eye. Good wine list, too. Full bar. ($$$) California
Saladang Song 383 S. Fair Oaks Ave., Pasadena (626-793-5200). B-L-D daily. Tired of the same ol', same ol' breakfast? Try pearly rice soup with ginger and chicken, or shimmering tofu in a warm sweet-and-tangy syrup, and have it under an umbrella on the terrace of this popular Thai-tech outpost. For lunch or dinner, grilled calamari, fish cakes steamed in a banana leaf, or one of a huge assortment of noodle soups might do the trick. Beer and wine. ($$) Thai
Smitty's Grill 110 S. Lake St., Pasadena (626-792-9999). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. The short-lived Ducz got a remodel by the Parkway Grill and Crocodile Cafe folks. The room's the same—but busier—and the menu is now reminiscent of a pub-steak house cross. Look for meat loaf, potpies, mac and cheese, prime rib, and shrimp Louie. Oh—or barbecued rattlesnake. Full bar. ($$$) American
Sushi Roku 33 Miller Alley, Pasadena (626-683-3000). L-D daily. Fresh bamboo accents the place inside and out, black linens top the tables, and a waterfall provides the requisite white noise and feng shui appeal. Along with a lengthy sushi and sashimi menu are tasty house specials: monkfish pâté, avocado tempura, and asparagus-wrapped filet mignon. Sake's served in bamboo cylinders. Full bar. ($$$) Japanese/Fusion
Trattoria Tre Venezie 119 W. Green St., Pasadena (626-795-4455). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. This quaint restaurant has books on its shelves and framed family photos on the walls. All pastas, including spinach- and-ricotta gnocchi and ravioli stuffed with red beets and ricotta, are made fresh daily, and the crema del gondolier, flavored with caramelized sugar and toasted ground almonds, is the perfect dolci. Full bar. ($$$) Northern Italian
Twin Palms 101 W. Green St., Pasadena (626-577-2567). L Mon.-Sat.; D nightly; brunch Sun. This 400-seat establishment owned by Cindy Costner (Kevin's ex) features a large patio, surprisingly low prices, and strikingly erratic cooking and service. Yet most folks like the experience of the somewhat zany eatery—with live music—that's two blocks south of Old Town. Full bar. ($$) California
Yujean Kang's 67 N. Raymond Ave., Pasadena (626-585-0855). L-D daily. A Chinese restaurant like no other: One soup is topped with meringue in which a small village scene is drawn, prawns are stir-fried with fava beans, and polenta is cooked Chinese style. Kang even makes a mean cheesecake. Also at 8826 Melrose Ave., West Hollywood (310-288-0806). Beer and wine. ($$) Chinese

South Bay

Café Pierre 317 Manhattan Beach Blvd., Manhattan Beach (310-545-5252). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Forget any laid-back beach-town vibes. This bistro dishes out French arrogance with the best of them, along with surprisingly creative cuisine, such as pumpkin ravioli in basil cream sauce. Full bar. ($$) Cal-French
Chez Melange 1716 S. Pacific Coast Hwy., Redondo Beach (310-540-1222). B-L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. This eclectic café offers some of the area's best cooking—from Japanese to Cajun, Italian to Chinese, with stops at a vodka-and-caviar bar. It's been called the ''Spago of Redondo Beach''—at about half the price. Full bar. ($$) California-Eclectic
Christy's 3937 E. Broadway Ave., Long Beach (562-433-7133). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Christy (daughter of Sonny) Bono's gem in Belmont Heights offers delicious eats: an impossibly tender osso buco, a striped bass served with orange-ginger vinaigrette bursting with flavor. For the finale, order the cappuccino crème brûlée or the chocolate bread pudding. Full bar. ($$$) Italian
Depot 1250 Cabrillo Ave., Torrance (310-787-7501). L Mon.-Fri.; D Mon.-Sat. Located in a restored train station, this eclectic spin-off of Chez Melange is where imposing, avuncular Michael Shafer's restless palate reveals itself in a constantly evolving menu. Full bar and extensive wine list. ($$) California
Legacy 1701 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach (310-375-8006). L Wed.-Sun.; D Tue.-Sat. Here's a swank spot with a European feel and great food: baked asparagus in a pastry shell; Vietnamese rolls with chopped shrimp, papaya, and avocado; seared Muscovy duck with sugar peas and polenta; angel-hair pasta with pesto-encrusted scallops, and rack of lamb with lentils. Finish with the chocolate flourless cake. Full bar. ($$) French/Mediterranean
Restaurant Christine 24530 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance (310-373-1952). L Mon.-Fri.; D nightly. Stepping into this stylish restaurant owned by chef Christine Brown and husband Jordan Funk is like entering a friend's home. The Pac Rim-accented food—sesame-crusted salmon with Chinese long beans on sticky rice, lobster ravioli, warm mushroom salad with Gorgonzola—is as elegant as the service. Beautiful desserts. Beer and wine. ($$$) Mediterranean/Pacific Rim
Soleil 1142 Manhattan Ave., Manhattan Beach (310-545-8654). L Tue.-Fri.; D Tue.-Sun. The atmosphere is beachy, with high ceilings and exposed beams, and the food is heavenly: arugula salad with paper-thin carpaccio; a variety of oysters on the half shell; paella with shrimp, mussels, calamari, chorizo, and chicken; succulent swordfish with a sauce of olives, capers, onions, and peppers. Bread pudding with chocolate sauce for dessert. Full bar. ($$) Cal-Mediterranean
22nd St. Landing 141 W. 22nd St., Cabrillo Marina, San Pedro (310-548-4400). L-D daily; brunch Sat.-Sun. This seafood grill right on the harbor allows diners the view of container vessels sliding by, along with a menu of fish, lobster, beef, and chicken, much of it broiled over citrus and applewood. Great when the fog rolls in. Full bar. ($$) Seafood
Zazou 1810 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach (310-540-4884). L Tue.-Sat.; D nightly. The name means "stylishly hip" in French, and this bright spot—with cuisine from Tuscany and Provence as well as Morocco and Southern California—lives up to its moniker. The roasted vegetables with spicy couscous, the carrot gnocchi, and the fish dishes are hard to beat. The chocolate brioche is richer than Prince Rainier. Full bar. ($$) French/Mediterranean

 

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